You’re not aiming to make any fashion statements, after all, just trying to get dressed. No matter how simple we make it, there are still a few tiny matters that are bound to raise their heads from time to time. Here’s the (very) short story on some of them.

Pant lengths:
It's true. Fashion does sometimes move the current stylish length of trousers up and down. It’s also true that most of us don’t really care what happens on the runway. We just want to be safely in that middle ground where people don’t point and laugh.

Luckily, the generally acceptable pant length for men doesn’t change much. Here are three simple guidelines:

  • The top front part of your shoes should be visible. If they are fully covered, you’ll look as if you don’t have feet.
  • Your pants should “break” (or drape) slightly across the front of your shoe, unless your pants are very narrow.
  • The hem should be straight, with the back of the pant leg ending about a half-inch above the floor or approximately at the top of the heel.*
*This matters more with some kinds of pants than others. If your slacks are very slim, simple geometry dictates they will have to be shorter. Try to have slacks hemmed while wearing the shoes you plan to wear with them.

Tie dimensions:
The width of tie that looks best with a given jacket is one that’s proportional to the width of the lapels on that jacket. Specifically, if your jacket is a fairly traditional one, your tie should be between 3 1/4" and 3 5/8" wide. Take the measurement at the widest end of the blade of the tie (the part that shows in front).

When tied, there should be no shirt showing above the tie at the collar or above the belt – but the tie should not hang below the belt buckle either.

Number of buttons:
If you hate shopping, you’re probably not worrying about whether your jackets have two buttons or three. In this case, you’re wise to spend your time worrying about something more worthwhile (global warming, maybe). Either number is fine and fashionable. What’s far more important is overall fit and how great the jacket makes you feel!

Lapel width:
See “Number of buttons”, above. Unless you’re buying vintage, any jacket you consider will be current in terms of lapel width. If you’re wearing vintage because you haven’t shopped in a really long time, compare your lapels with those in photos of fashionably-dressed men (check out People magazine in the grocery store check-out line) and come to your own conclusion.

The original store will usually do the work, for a fee, or the alterations experts there may moonlight. If your trusty dry-cleaner doesn’t do alterations, they probably have a recommendation or two they feel comfortable in making. Local fabric stores often have lists of tailors and seamstresses, and of course there’s always the internet. Keep in mind that tailoring can be expensive, so weigh that against the cost/value of the garment in question before deciding to alter rather than replace. That said, though, sometimes simple alterations can truly make the difference between looking acceptable and looking truly great.